The Third Wheel Chronicles; Chapter 3: Reeding Between the Lines

     Continuing on our adventures in Astana, we awoke on the 23rd of June hoping to catch a bus ride to Lake Tengiz, a rich bird hotspot 2 hours east of the capital and the location of Central Asian endemics like Black Lark and Sociable Lapwing in addition to the world's northernmost breeding colony of Greater Flamingos. However, we realized not for the last time that information given about Kazakhstan on the internet is meh at best and that a more reasonable timed bus had already left that would have given us plenty more time at the park before the latest bus's return at 5 pm. Deciding that only 2 hours at a place that was actually huge and probably confusing to navigate was not worth it, we instead set our sights on a lake just to the west of the city: Lake Taldykol. It seemed very close to the apartment, from google maps appeared to have nice trails around it, and in addition, a brief use of ebird revealed that someone reported - wait for it - Demoiselle Crane at the water body earlier during the month. Despite the online news reports about residents of Astana complaining about this apparent sewage pond's stench, we set out anyways and seriously, what's a little odor in comparison to the Demoiselle Crane?
      Very soon after we exited the city, we came across a small pond with decent bird diversity. I set up the scope and looked around, getting several life birds including the Great Crested Grebe, which we got killer views at 60x of.

A really cute Variable Toad

Common Sandpiper being really uncooperative but at least showing off its diagnostic features somewhat.

Loch Ness Monster

    It was then a bunch of walking until we reached the marshes closest to the lake. Along the way was a very fascinating wilderness-ish, with large expanses of undeveloped land with reeds and wildflowers right next to abundant construction and a busy road. The walk was less pleasant than what we expected from the Google Maps browsing but the wildlife made it bearable.

I hate saying this, but I have absolutely no idea what this wonderful low-growing plant is! It was growing quite abundantly all around the empty plains.

Eastern Dappled White (Euchloe ausonia) enjoying the unknown plant.

Some of the Flat Sea Holly (Eryngium planum), growing abundantly in gorgeous swaths of blue.

One of the many Siberian Stonechat I saw. This vocal female was especially curious / angry and allowed a good amount of pics to be taken.

Eurasian Marsh-harrier

Western Yellow Wagtail

Northern Wheatear, an Old World flycatcher with a most awesome migration pattern that will bring it  to sub-Saharan Africa in the winter. Even populations nesting in Alaska and northeastern Canada will travel to this end location, either doing what this bird will do in crossing the whole of Central Asia and the Middle East (Alaskan populations) or crossing the northern Atlantic and travelling down the coast of Europe and Africa (Canadian populations). 

Mute Swans. Apparently these large majestic birds are capable of causing serious harm to humans when defending their young. This family, however, seemed to not want anything to do with us and instead of showing aggression, peacefully swam away into the marsh thickets.

    We then came across the beginning of a trail leading into a large swath of Arundo reeds. Interestingly enough, the Russian Olive (Eleagnus angustifolia) was also growing within this swamp, creating a fascinating effect of 2 nasty invasives in California growing native and together in Kazakhstan. 

Siberian Stonechat male with the stark contrast of Astana behind him.

A Bluethroat, which, along with the Northern Wheatear (which also happens to be an Old World flycatcher), is one of the most coveted birds of the ABA area that are regular breeders. In the area of marsh closest to the lake, this species was pretty much everywhere, just not particularly cooperative as exhibited by this female individual.

Eurasian Kestrel hovering over the marsh

Black Kite

A beautiful male Bluethroat whose stunningly colored blue throat was really not captured well in this picture.

As I continued looking in the reeds for more birds, a small group of Chlidonias terns flew by. I really hoped to see a White-winged but only got Blacks. Not really a loss as the Black Tern is one of my favorite tern species. Pictured here is an adult molting into winter plumage and looking rather ratty. 

Common Pochard flyover

The Blue Globe Onion (Allium caeruleum), also known by the extremely flattering name of Blue-of-the-Heavens. And damn that is some mouthwatering blue.

    As we reached the end of the trail in the reeds, the separate trail leading up to the lake that was so apparent on Google Maps seemed to be nonexistent. After a bit of searching, however, Stuart and I did find an overgrown entrance. Wanting to see the lake and the potential birds there, the 2 of us beat on through the 7 foot tall grasses. Despite our efforts, after a grueling 20 minutes, the growth was far too thick to go on further. In addition, the trail was also turning into a channel of muddy water. Disappointed, we walked back to where Helen was napping. At least she enjoyed herself during this anticlimactic portion. 

    A final unpleasant surprise in the area was an opened condom package on the ground. Lovely.

Female Common Reed Bunting that allowed for a brief viewing before returning to its hidden world.

Male Common Hawker (Aeshna juncea) munching on another dragonfly (a bit hard to tell from the picture)

Small Tortoiseshell (Aglais urticae)

Little Ringed-plover standing on tiptoes for some reason. Probably to look cute.

These little shorebirds were surprisingly hard to spot on the muddy edges of a marsh and if they weren't moving and I didn't know where to look, I probably would not have seen any. On another note, look at that bold yellow orbital ring!

     Although the first official birding day of the trip did not go as well as it could have, it still went amazingly, with a bunch of life birds and cool things seen. At least the area had no smell... Moral of the story: pretty much everything on the internet about Kazakhstan is wrong or outdated.

TL;DR: Birded outside of Astana, good day bad information